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My previous setup was a 4K UHD TV and an old school Denon 1909 AV receiver that doesn't support 4K. The receiver is very capable, powerful, thus had no plans on changing my current 5.1 setup--other than a major speaker upgrade. My only solution was an optical link from the TV, but the limited bandwidth meant I wasn't getting HD Audio and was the weak link in the chain. My only choice was to live with it until I upgraded my receiver.
That is, until I discovered this little gem. I tried other splitters, but was plagued with either flickering screens, no audio, 1080P on both outputs, washed colors, etc. I was skeptical when I received it, but was intrigued by the customization options. Out of the box, I was able to get 4K video and, after turning on the downscaling DIP switch, HD audio passed the receiver. However, no matter what configuration I tried, there was a constant flicker of the video signal.
Was about to send back when, after some research, discovered that this product is identical to the EZCOOL P12H2 splitter. I went directly to the EZCOOL website product page (not Amazon's), and under the downloads section, I downloaded the 'firmware upgrade' package. I didn't upgrade the firmware, but there was a tool (PortHelper) that allowed me to connect directly with the splitter and change the EDID settings. (The tool is partly in Chinese, but just follow the included video tutorials). Once I changed the EDID to "30" (Dolby Vision/Dolby Atmos), it works like a charm, no flickering or washed out colors. The only downside is that it seems to lose this setting if I unplug the splitter for a long time or after a reset.
Ever since we bought a new Roku Ultra (4800X), we would randomly get a blank screen when trying to use HBO Max channel and a few others. We would have to turn off the TV and back on for the picture to show. The Roku then updated to software version 10, we would see an HDCP error screen with the error code 020. That narrowed down the issue. We are using the Roku with a Onkyo receiver and an older 60" Sony LED TV. Once the splitter was placed inline from the receiver to the TV, the errors went away. I know it's not marked or advertised for this, but it saved a lot of headaches and money from not having to buy we hardware for some stupid error.
I have a 1080P projector, a 4K Fire Stick and a Receiver that supports 4K and Atmos. I plugged the video output of the receiver into this, and the output of this device with the scaler on to the projector. I set the EDID to 4K. The Fire Stick now thinks I have a 4K projector and therefore sends the 4K signal including the ATMOS audio stream to the receiver. The receive plays ATMOS (for the apps and movies that offer the content). This device downscales the 4K video to the projector. Exactly what I wanted. Works well and allows me to get ATMOS audio with a 1080P projector.
We have new 2020 Samsung TVs with passthrough support for Dolby Atmos or Dolby Vision. When I bought the new TVs, I hoped that Dolby Atmos would work with the older Samsung K850 and K950 soundbars because of the passthrough support. It doesn’t work because the soundbars use ARC and the TVs use eARC.
I tested 3 configurations with this splitter: This low cost splitter worked pretty well for a simple configuration.
1. First Configuration: This the obvious setup with the soundbar HDMI-OUT connected to HDMI-IN on the splitter. The splitter output was connected to the TV and the soundbar.
As others reported, it didn’t work. But I don't think it's a problem with the splitter.
It's a K850 and K950 soundbar problem because the soundbar HDMI-OUT is HDMI 2.0 and sends ARC. The splitter doesn’t recognize ARC, which is what the soundbar is using.
2. Second Configuration: Used the splitter via the Fire TV Cube. This worked and sent Dolby Atmos to both soundbars. It proves that the soundbar's HDMI-OUT is not picked up by the splitter.
1) The Fire-TV cube is connected to HDMI-IN of the splitter. The splitter's EDID switch is set for Copy (described as Auto in the User Guide). 2) HDMI-1 OUT of the splitter is connected to the HDMI-IN on the TV. Did not enable scaling. 3) HDMI-2 OUT of the splitter is connected to HDMI-1 on the soundbar. Did not enable scaling
NOTE 1: I tested the K850 and K950 soundbars with and without firmware upgrades. Found that the firmware upgrades cleared up a Dolby Atmos scenario which required the stream to start and then a reset to the same HDMI port on the soundbar.
NOTE 2: If the video is purple toned or grainy, try setting the EDID switch for 4K. It should clear up. If the video doesn’t clear up, set the scaling on each HDMI-OUT port (test one at a time)
3. Third Configuration: the main TV uses a cable box. The output from the cable box is not 4K, so I didn’t test the splitter. It would probably work with a 4K cable box.
1) Left the Direct TV HDMI-OUT connected to HDMI-1 IN on the TV. Used the splitter and the Fire TV cube.
2) The TV and soundbar inputs had to be switched for either Direct TV or Fire TV. Everything worked, but there is no ARC or eARC control to make it easier.
--- TV inputs: Used Cable TV and Fire TV as names for the TV HDMI ports. --- Soundbar inputs: Fire TV used HDMI-2 on the soundbar. Had to connect an optical cable from the Cable TV box to the soundbar and use D.IN for Cable TV audio.
3) The family was confused by the TV and soundbar switching. The cable box and soundbar configuration will require a unit that can convert ARC to eARC.
OH EM GEE!!! I had to split the signal from my Apple TV to my TV and receiver. My receiver does not support dolby vision and HDCP2.2. This $30 splitter saved me from having to buy another updated Denon receiver. I didn't want to have to buy another receiver so I tried this splitter. It splits 4k enhanced video (Dolby vision) and gives me Dolby HD and Atmos to my receiver. I finally can stream Disney + and enjoy full 4K dolby vision off my OLED. I'd give the splitter 5 stars, but the power cord does not come with the base. You must supply that yourself.
Bought this along with a UVC component (capture device) to pull recorded shows off of my cable box DVR so I could then use comskip to strip the commercials and put them on my home media center for personal enjoyment. That frees up space on the DVR and stripping out the commercials out makes re-watching more enjoyable. You can't do that with most capture / UVC devices because of the content protection feature (HDCP). It has become more difficult to find a HDMI splitter that will strip HDCP so that you can do what I described above, but this one does it and does it well. Have tried at different resolutions as well, and it has handled everything I could throw at it. Go ahead and get one (or two) of these before they disappear. I am about to reorder another one just to have it in reserve. Well worth the price.
I have a Dolby Atmos system but not a 4k projector. Streaming services such as Amazon Prime and VUDU bundle Dolby Atmos with their 4k streaming video, and they won't stream Dolby Atmos with a 1080p video stream. (Although, Netflix does stream Dolby Atmos with 1080p video.)
This splitter is the perfect solution. It tricks Amazon Prime and VUDU into thinking I have a 4k tv, and then they stream 4k video with Dolby Atmos. The splitter then passes the Dolby Atmos through to my receiver and resizes the 4k video to 1080p for my projector. Now I can get Dolby Atmos sound with 1080p streaming video.
This $30 miracle device allows me to split my Apple TV 4K’s signals to my Sony TV and Yamaha AV receiver. One output goes to the TV, the second output goes to the receiver. My newer Sony TV can handle 4k and Dolby Vision, but my older Yamaha AV receiver can’t. So this device allows me to watch 4K Dolby Vision video on the tv while the Atmos audio comes from the Yamaha receiver. In addition, I can stream lossless Apple Music through the receiver with the TV off. I accomplish that by doing either of the following:
1. With the TV off, but receiver on, I use Airplay from my iPhone/iPad to play music via the Apple TV. Or,
2. Turn the TV on first, select a playlist from the Apple Music app built into the Apple TV, play the music, turn off TV, and control the music from iPhone/iPad. With this method, you can even turn off the Apple Music app in the iPhone/iPad, and the music continues to play because the Apple TV is streaming music through its built-in Apple Music app.
I almost returned the splitter because I initially can’t get get 4k video to work with the TV just 1080p with the splitter’s downscaler on. Then I learned I plugged it into one of the TV’s non-4K HDMI inputs. Duh. So, don’t be like me—make sure you plug the splitter into your TV’s 4k compatible HDMI input. And use HDMI 2.0 or newer cables, of course. That part I did right.
Not sure why this does not work with my Samsung K950 soundbar. I bought this to split my Xbox to get Dolby atmos to my soundbar and to get Dolby vision to my tv. My sound bar does not Pass-Through atmos or vision through the arc port. So I was either connecting my Xbox to my tv to get vision but lose atmos when passed through arc to soundbar or connect to soundbar and get atmos but lose vision to tv. I tested all my hdmi cables to make sure they were working and they were but every time I turned on my Xbox the soundbar would not receive the signal from the splitter. I tried switching the cables on the out ports and the tv would always receive the signal but not the soundbar. I would unplug the splitter and plug in because sometimes the hdmi in port would not receive the signal from the Xbox unless I unplugged it to restart it. The soundbar would suddenly work and I would be getting vision and atmos (I have no idea what made it worked, I repeated steps multiple times and it would suddenly work after doing nothing new) but once I turned off the Xbox and turned it on again I would have the same problem of not connecting to soundbar. I am not going to fiddle with the splitter for 20 mins until it suddenly works every time I want to watch Netflix.
It's just not reliable with the PS5. I purchased this product to split my 4k PS5 signal between a 4k tv and a 1080p tv. I've got everything set up properly, HDMI 2.0 cables less than 3m long, EDID set to 4k (tried both 4k EDID options), the 4k tv is hooked up to output 1, tried several different working power adapters (they include a usb cable for power but no power adapter for it), and even changed the audio settings on my PS5 to Dolby as recommended on the amazon product page. The only way to get it to work is to hold down the "update," button to get the unit to reset, juggle around the power cable and HDMI cables, and eventually I get a picture on my 4k TV. It works fine until I shut down my PS5 and come back to it later, at that point I have to go through the whole song and dance again which is far more work to do than the problem I'm trying to solve. That being said, there are no issues with the scaled signal, always get a signal on the 1080p display, it's just extremely touchy and forgetful with the 4k one. I will be returning this unit and trying another option unless I have some kind of breakthrough with it and it works reliably.